Recipes
Crème de Gibier
By Justin Carlisle
Chefs have a reputation for burning the midnight oil. Traveling to be with family during the holidays is often just not feasible. Such was the case for Justin Carlisle, whose career – prior to opening Ardent, the intimate, tasting menu-focused spot on Milwaukee’s East Side – landed the Sparta, Wisconsin, native in Chicago for a cooking job at the now-closed fine dining icon Tru. He spent the holidays in Chicago and it became customary that his friend, chef Chris Pandel, made this French soup, creme de gibier, which translates to “game cream” in English. It’s also taken on a life outside of that period in Carlisle’s life. “I usually make it at least once a year,” he says. “It’s a super-old recipe” that uses foie gras trim or the excess from pate. That, plus the “cleaner, sweeter” root vegetables and apple, “balances the liveriness.”
This elegant soup has an equally sophisticated presentation, with a bit of the vegetables and meats placed inside each bowl and the luxurious cream poured around it. “It brings me back to a 22-year friendship,” Carlisle says. From the ingredients to the process, this creation is achingly memorable.
Ingredients
Serves 4
2 whole squab
1 parsnip
1 whole onion
1 rib celery
1 whole celeriac
1 whole apple (Granny Smith)
1 whole leek
4 ounces/133 grams roasted chestnuts
4 ounces/133 grams butter
3 ounces/85 grams canola oil
32 ounces/900 grams roasted chicken stock
32 ounces/900 grams heavy cream
5 ounces/142 grams foie gras or duck liver pate
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
Instructions
Butcher the squab by separating the back legs and taking the breasts off. Save them for later. Clean, peel and do a small dice of all the vegetables and save the peels, trim and scraps. Blanch the diced vegetables in a large pot of lightly salted water and shock in a bowl of ice water. Remove from the ice water once cooled and place on a couple sheets of paper towels until ready to finish.
For the soup, roast the squab carcasses, livers and hearts in the oven until deeply caramelized. In a 6-quart brazier or stockpot, start with the canola oil on medium heat and sweat the vegetable scraps. Add the squab pieces, chestnuts and butter. Stir and sauté until the butter starts foaming. Add chicken stock and reduce by two-thirds, then add heavy cream and foie gras. Simmer for about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and blend everything together, bones and all. Strain through a fine strainer and season with sherry vinegar, salt and pepper. Hold hot until ready to serve.
For the squab breasts and legs, season them with salt and pepper. Sear the legs first in a medium sauté pan, caramelize the skin and flip. Now, place the breasts skin side down in the same pan. Once the skin is caramelized on the breasts, flip them and turn off the heat. Let the squab sit in the pan for one minute, then remove the breasts and legs and place on a tray for serving.
To serve
Warm the diced vegetables and place a spoonful of the mixture into each soup bowl. Slice the squab breast and place the leg on top of vegetables and the sliced breast. Pour hot soup around the vegetables in the four bowls.
Bio
Justin Carlisle grew up on a small beef farm in rural Wisconsin and food has always played a large part of his life. Starting in small restaurants, his passion for cooking grew and help developed a love of food and a hard work ethic. His restaurant Ardent opened in October of 2013 and has been named one of the 15 best new restaurants by Condé Nast Traveler; the Best Restaurant in the State of Wisconsin by the Business Insider; and was named a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation in 2014. Ardent is a James Beard Awards nominee for Best Chef Midwest for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. Plate magazine also named him one of the top 30 chefs to watch in 2016. During his time as a chef, Ardent has continued to support the local food movement and use a modern, technical approach to it.
Justin Carlisle
Ardent
Justin Carlisle
Ardent