This cookbook project gave trained pastry chef Zaczek the chance to revisit the past. Her Armenian grandmother made a sweet phyllo pastry called bourma. When Zaczek says the word, she emphasizes the first part of it and rolls the “r.” This pastry – akin to Greek baklava – is miles from the yuzu mousses and mezcal caramels she’s made as a restaurant pastry chef. And making it was time travel, family history travel – “Everything I’ve done for a decade is fine dining. I don’t think we’ve had [bourma] at home since [her grandmother] died. Her and her old lady friends would all get together and roll these little logs up. It would take like a whole day.” The family would eat it on holidays. For Zaczek, who grew up in South Milwaukee, making it again was both easier than she’d remembered and “a lot of fun. I feel like it looks far more complicated than it is. When I busted it out, my dad said it was just like Grandma Mary made it. I was like, ‘Wow, that’s so sweet because that was his mom’s.’” This bourma is, then, historic preservation at its finest.