A recent Milwaukee transplant, Kyle Knall leads the ship that is Birch, with its focus on what’s fresh and in-season – lots of bright flavors and citrus, always citrus. During the farmers market season, he’s a regular at West Allis, letting it be the menu bellwether. What you’ll notice when you dine here is that Knall doesn’t let anything get too complicated. His home cooking is based on that philosophy as well. Take this spaghetti – simple, simple, simple. Quality ingredients also matter though Knall says if, for example, you can’t get San Marzano tomatoes, use what you’ve got. As far as what you need from the fresh ingredients department, it’s garlic and fresh basil – that’s it. “Most ingredients are almost always on hand and in the pantry,” says Knall.

But this pasta is more than a recipe. It takes Knall back to working at Bottega Restaurant under his mentor, Frank Stitt. Megan Knall, Kyle’s wife, worked there – it’s where they met. Knall says at that tender age (21), his cooking style made it hard for him to cook at home – to cook at home with simplicity. But this pasta changed that. His wife loves it and his young son does, too. And it’s seen a wider audience. “I’ve riffed on it in the restaurant setting,” he says. He uses Monini extra-virgin olive oil in the restaurant, but what he emphasizes here more than the oil is the basil and garlic. When he makes it for his extended family at their beach house in Florida, it might get fancier – “jazzed up” with shrimp, for example. This Knall family “go-to” is a reliable solo flyer but also makes a good base.